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 Glazes & Shades

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Lord Payne

Lord Payne


Number of posts : 671
Registration date : 2007-05-01

Glazes & Shades Empty
PostSubject: Glazes & Shades   Glazes & Shades EmptyMon 31 Aug - 12:57:34

Glazes & Shades are both types of washing and are very similar.  In fact, so similar many painters don't actually know the difference between them (for a long time neither did I).  So here is a quick brief on the differences and how to use them.

Shades - GW produce a range of shades that are designed to deepen and collect in the recesses creating a shade (as the name suggests).

Glazes are designed to sit on top of the colour and they enhance and enrich the colours.

So how to use them.

Glazes and washes are easy to create.  GW have about 8 shades and to be honest they cover pretty much all the colours you will need to use.  However, if you want to make your own then add about 2 parts water for each 1 part paint and you will have your shade.  Use a Wash Brush and just flood the area with the shade and give it a good 10 minutes to dry.  Sometimes you may wish to use an ordinary brush and apply the shade to a specific area, such as in and around the eyes on the face for instance.

Making a glaze is almost identical.  Add a minimum of 4 parts water to 1 part paint.  However, you will get much better results by using Lhamian Medium to your colour.  4 parts medium will be sufficient for most glazes, or if you are doing ordinary blending then a straight forward 1:1 mix is ideal.  

When would I use a glaze?

You should consider glazing for most of your layering.  a 1:1 mix of medium and paint produces a smooth finish and avoids a chalky finish. When you apply a new layer to blend apply your highlight over the previous layer and then draw the paint towards the darker colour (this is called feathering).  Because the paint is thinned it will dry with some traslucency over the darker layer and over several layers of this you will create a smooth blend.

Enriching:  Sometimes even through all of your careful blending or even drybrushing, you will be left with a chalky finish or some not so smooth blends.  Yippee for glazing, we can blend this all together (enriching the colour) with a good glaze.  The better your blending the better the effect the glaze will have.
Create a 4:1 mix of medium to paint.  I use this method on gems.  Suppose you have just finished your red gem.  The final highlight that had a hint of white will have created a slightly chalky effect and on top of this my gem will also be lacking the depth created by light hitting the stone.  So, I mix up a blood red glaze (4 parts medium, 1 part paint).  I now apply this directly over the highlight and bottom half of the gem.  Leave to dry and then apply a 2nd glaze.  My highlight will of course be made darker (but that's why we go for extreme highlights) but after drying all of my blending is smoothly blended by the glaze.  Finally I apply a thin layer of Carroburg Crimson as a shade over the top quarter of the gem.  

These two washes bring my gem to life.  After I have finished the model and sprayed it with a matte satin I apply 2 thin layers of Ard Coat over the gem to give it that sparkle.

Directional lighting (or Object Source Lighting).  Glazes are wonderful for this.  You will most likely need around a 5:1 medium to paint mix for this and a lot of patience and practice.  Make sure that the glaze is not brighter than the source of light, otherwise you ruin the effect.  So your source of light is painted in.  Now on the areas close around the light source thin down the mid tone and apply.  You will require around 3 very thin layers.  Build the layers towards the light.  Then add a shade of the same colour or a mid tone of the surface around the light.  
EG:  A green light is shining around a black arm.  Use warpstone glow mixed as a glaze.  Apply in a crude radius around the light in 2-3 very thin layers.  Further away from the light mix in Regal Blue or some other suitably dark blue to the green and thin it back down.  Apply on the extreme edge of the glow.  Finally add moot green and any of the yellows to the original warpstone glow.  Thin this to the glaze and apply about a millimeter from the light as a highlight of the glow.
It takes a bit of practice, but improves with each attempt.

Make-up and toning.  Glazes are excellent for this.  Take Elves and Eldar.  They have a lot of make-up.  Lets pick a Wych.  Once the face is complete we want to add some eye shadow and blushing.  Mix a bit of ice blue into a glaze.apply a tiny amount above the eye and then feather towards the bridge of the nose.  Allow to dry and then apply a few more layers in the same manner as the first, however, start closer to the nose each time.  
Now the blusher.  Carroburg Crimson is a good colour.  Turn this in to a glaze.  Because it is a shade you can add 1 part medium for one part shade.  Star on the cheek bone and feather towards the ear.  With each layer get higher and a curved direction towards the eye and ear (making a slight crescent).  This takes a lot of practice but after a few goes you will start to see improvements - just be prepared to make some horrific mistakes on your first few goes.

Toning is a great use of glazes.  It is similar to the gem idea.  Very useful on Daemons.  You have made your red skin but it looks a bit to plastic from highlighting - use a bloodletter glaze or make a blood red glaze and wash over the raised areas and some of the layer below it.   This will create a more natural blend and take away that harsh finish.  The flayed flesh wracks by the Eavy metal team used this technique (Bloodletter glaze at the end to give the fresh flayed look)

BIG TIP:  KEEP A DAMP TISSUE HANDY.  YOU CAN WIPE OFF MISTAKES AS THEY HAPPEN
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